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Guest Spotlight: How to Scarify the Lawn in Autumn

Crystal Williams

By: Ann Katelyn

Ideally, the process of scarifying your own lawn is a great way to improve its overall health in the long run. However, you also need to note that this method temporarily affects your lawn in a negative manner as it becomes aesthetically unappealing.

In fact, a perfectly healthy grass plant can be ruined if scarifying is improperly conducted or done at the wrong time of the year. Thus, it is important to know when and how to scarify the lawn. With the right information, your property should recover as quickly as possible.

Know the right period


Scarifying is not something you should randomly decide to do at any time of the year. It’s not advisable to simply dig down into the grass in an attempt to prevent the spread of thatch and moss underneath the growing grass. While thatch needs to be dealt with since it hinders plant growth by taking the nutrients and water for itself, the conditions need to be just right for scarifying. This ensures immediate recovery for your grass.

If you’re planning a deep scarifying operation that will expose a sizable area of the soil, you should do it during autumn. Once the thatch, moss, and other organic matter that affect lawn health have been removed, there will be room for plants to grow. However, this also means that pesky weeds can take the new space. The best outcome here is for the scarified area to become a great seedbed, which is perfect if you wish to spread new grass seed.

This is why scarifying in autumn is crucial. Since you are going to do it in autumn, it will be unlikely for the weeds to overtake the grass in covering the exposed ground due to their relatively slow growth. In contrast, scarifying during the spring season is problematic as weed growth is far faster at this time compared to autumn. In other words, scarifying during spring removes the thatch and the moss but invites bad grass weeds into your lawn.

Preparing the lawn


In order to properly scarify your lawn, the grass needs to be short and dry. Two weeks before the procedure, you should mow the lawn. Remember not to drastically increase the cutting height as this can lead to plant shock. As the grass height is shortened, more air could reach the turf and dry your lawn grass. One day before scarifying, mow the grass again as shortly as possible without scalping it.

Likewise, all of the undesirable weeds in your lawn need to be removed one week before scarifying the area. Even though scarifying itself can stop the spread of invasive weeds, the better solution is still to apply an effective weed control product.

While the grass should be dry, the soil needs to have an adequate amount of moisture. This will help your lawn to recover after a deep scarifying operation. If ever the soil is too damp or too brittle, you have to wait for the right soil conditions to arrive. It’s best to scarify the lawn on a dry afternoon. If it unexpectedly rains, just keep the grass height short and wait for the next dry day.

The proper use of the tools


In scarifying the lawn, you can use either a petrol scarifier or an electric-powered raker. With the former, you can easily go down deep into the soil immediately, but don’t do it. Just like mowing, it’s much better to gradually deepen the scarifying operation with each succeeding run. On the other hand, an electric raker will do just as well since it has wire tines for removing moss and blades for scarifying.

Here’s a video showing a lawn being scarified in autumn:

Your scarifying machine will likely have a height adjustment feature to keep the blade and the wires in direct contact with the soil. Instead of removing chunks of your lawn, repeated runs with minor changes both in the direction and in the scarifying height will allow the moss and the thatch to be teased out. Lastly, don’t forget to have a collection box to remove all the debris that has been unearthed through scarifying.

We hope that this quick guide helped you understand why scarifying is best done during the autumn season. Before the procedure, remember to have dry and short grass. Consequently, progressively increasing the scarifying height with each run is the best method.  

If you have any queries, feel free to give us a comment.

Guest Spotlight: 4 Fun DIY Solar Lights You Can Make with Your Kids

Crystal Williams

By: Jackie Edwards


As Fall and Winter creep ever closer to us, it means the weather will become crisper, fresher and the nights longer and chillier. It doesn't mean we all have to stay indoors and not bother with the elements. Far from it, there are lots of interesting projects you can undertake in the garden to keep it looking and feeling like a special place to be all year round. 

So how can you save energy, protect the environment, spend quality time with your kids, and save money at the same time? Creating DIY solar lights with your youngsters achieves all of these goals. Here are some fun projects to do with children of any age.

Ghost Solar Lights

For this, you will need a paint brush, hammer, white glass stain, pint mason jars, rubbing alcohol, a small pointed screw driver, 3D gloss enamels in black, and solar lights with stakes. First, you need to put a hole in the lid of the jar to accept the solar light. Next, paint the pint jar white with the stain, and allow it to dry. Then, add a ghost face using the enamel. Bake the jar based on the manufacturer’s instructions that came with the paint. Lastly, screw the solar light onto the jar and put it outside. The ghost solar light is perfect for Halloween night.

Tin Can Lantern

You will need to collect some safety materials for this crafty solar lighting project: safety glasses, pliers, quick set epoxy adhesive, cordless drill and metal drill bits, recycled tin can (with the label removed), a black permanent marker, clear waterproof silicone caulk, galvanized steel wire, and a solar path light. Use the permanent marker to draw the design you want on the tin can lantern. Put on your safety glasses and use the drill to put holes in the can where the marks are. Disassemble the solar light and incorporate it into the tin can by drilling a hole in the bottom of the can. Keep the solar panel at the top. And, use the steel wire to hang the lantern.

Colored Mason Jar Lanterns

This project requires Blu-tack, an Ikea glass jar, tracing paper of your preferred color, an AA rechargeable battery, and a solar garden light. Place the solar garden light innards into the Ikea jar with the solar panel on top of the lid, and keep it all together with Blu-tack. Place a strip of tracing paper inside the jar, then carefully close the lid. Once the ambient light goes below a specific threshold, the light-sensing diode will cause the LED to light up.

Fairy Light Chandelier

You will need an outdoor stake solar light that fits in the hole of the basket frame, wire hanging basket frame with round circle of wire in the bottom, basket-hanging chains, and shells, chandelier crystals, or beads. Place the light so the solar panel rests on top of the center of the upside-down basket. Attach the chains. Affix the crystals, beads, or shells around the basket to create a chandelier look.

Grow Your Tomatoes With These Easy Tips

Crystal Williams

By: Danielle McLeod

Summer just isn’t summer without at least one tomato plant growing somewhere. At least that’s my opinion, and it doesn’t take many to have a healthy crop to feed your family and friends if you are so inclined.

But occasionally tomatoes can be finicky and provide some moments of grief and anxiety while you coax them to maturity and fruition. Tomatoes are a pretty easy summer plant to grow however, so there is no need to worry that you aren’t up to the tomato growing task. If you are looking for tips for growing tomato plants, look no further; simply follow the helpful hints below to ensure a healthy, and happy growing season!

Picking Your Plants

Whether you are going to grow your tomatoes from seeds, or pick out well-started seedlings from a catalog or garden center, you’ll want to consider your choices in advance. Lucky for you, there are a lot to choose from, 25,000 varieties worldwide to be exact, but don’t worry – only about 700 are in true cultivation!

Don’t freak out! Fewer than this will be available to you, but you will need to narrow your choices down between three broad categories that hold a few dozen varieties each.

Sometimes It’s nice to have a variety of plants to use for different purposes in cooking and culinary bliss! You’ll find that no matter where you shop for seeds or seedlings, each store will have their favorite hardy picks for you to choose from.



Cherry tomatoes are known for their sweet-tart flavor and are popular upon snacking and salads.



Sauce tomatoes are known for their lower water content which makes them good contenders for sauces, pastes, and sun-dried, or dehydrated, tomatoes to put into salads, or use as toppings in recipes.



Beefsteak varieties you may remember from your childhood picking from the vine and eating like an apple. These have the biggest fruits and are very flavorful. These are popular for in sandwiches, and caprese.

Starting seeds is an easy enough task for anyone to do if you follow a few simple rules to get started. The first rule to remember, is that in order of for tomato seeds to germinate, the soils needs to be at or above 60 degrees fahrenheit (preferably warmer), and that your best results will come from starting seed indoors six to eight weeks before the last expected frost date

  1. Ideally you will want to place your hardy seedlings in the garden about two weeks after the last frost, especially if you live in a growing zone that experiences a short season.
  2. Using a sterile seed starting mix, or soilless seed starting compound, moisten your soils and create ¼ inch deep holes or rows )depending on what sort of container you are using).
  3. Plant seeds at least a half inch apart and pinch soils back over them to cover loosely. Be sure to label your varieties.
  4. By day 7 you should have some sprouts making their appearance, and by day 30 they will begin to grow their true leaves above their ‘baby’ leaves. At this point, or shortly prior to it, you should thin out any seedlings that are closer than a half inch to one another, or down to only one seedling if you are using individual seed starting pots.

When to Plant Your Tomatoes


It’s safe to assume that two weeks after frost is a safe enough buffer to ensure there is no threat of another freeze that would ruin all your hard work with seedlings, or destroy your newly bought plants. If by chance a late frost threatens once you have them in the ground, cover your plants with a sheet, or garden cloth of some type.

Tomatoes are particularly susceptible to frosts, which can occur at anywhere under 40 degrees fahrenheit, as well as rough spring winds- so be sure to carefully watch the weather. You may even want to consider a portable cold frame to place over your plants if you have any doubt about their survivability.

Tomatoes also do better when planted on a cloudy day, or in the late afternoon and evenings as it allows them the chance to settle in and not be exposed to direct sunlight and dry conditions. They will bounce back from transplant shock much quicker this way.

Where to Plant Your Tomatoes


Tomatoes LOVE the sun, and if possible, plant yours in full sun, providing two to three feet of space between each plant, and three to five feet from each row to provide good air circulation. I like to grow my tomatoes in cages for support and use my cages as good space indicators immediately after transplanting my seedling. However, cages aren’t always the best choice depending on your tomato variety, as I will explain below.

Also try to rotate your planting spot from one year to the next, or every three years at the maximum. This helps to reduce the spread of disease and also allows soils to replenish nutrients. If you augment your soils each year, this isn’t as important as you will be mixing in and turning over new material before planting anyway.

It’s important to note that tomatoes also make great patio plants and can easily be grown in pots or backyard containers if you lack the space for a true garden plot. Just be sure to cycle out your soils from one year to the next!

How to Plant Your Tomatoes


Holes should be twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball. This is especially important for tomatoes since they root from the stem (fun fact: a broken branch stuck back in the ground will often re-root itself into a new plant). You will want to place your seedling 1/3 of the way up the stem to ensure healthy root growth. Root growth equals big, healthy plants and lots of tomatoes!

If you have used or purchased a plant in a biodegradable pot then all you need to do is remove the bottom and plant the pot with the seedling still inside. But if you need to remove it for transplantation, gently tip the container and squeeze the sides to loosen the soils. Your seedlings should slip out fairly easily for you to cradle the soils bound roots and place into the hole you’ve created. Cover with soils and gently push it into place.

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